Whale Watching: A High Pointe Inn Adventure

When Rich and I first moved to Cape Cod, we were intrigued by the many whale-watching excursions offered throughout the spring, summer, and early fall. Rich, ever the skeptic, thought that whale watching fell into the category of “submarine races” and other questionable activities designed to take advantage of the ill-informed or naive tourist. That, of course, was until we took our first whale-watching excursion from Barnstable Harbor via the Hyannis Whale Watcher. Departing around 3:00 PM on a perfect summer afternoon on the M/V Whale Watcher, a new state-of-the-art jet-powered boat that can literally turn on a dime, we sped north across Cape Cod Bay toward Stellwagen Bank, which lies roughly 6 miles northeast of Provincetown.

My reserach revealed that Stellwagen Bank is an 842-square-mile section of shallows in the open ocean lying in the Gulf of Maine just off the mouth of Cape Cod Bay. A prime fishing area, Stellwagen’s unique conditions and topography enable it to support a tremendous diversity of marine life, from single-cell organisms to great whales. A protected National Marine Sanctuary since 1992–the first area in the Northeast to receive that designation–Stellwagen Bank attracts the whales that migrate here because of its abundant food supplies. Many types of whales are found here, including finback (the largest), humpback (the most playful), right (the most endangered), sei, minke, killer (also known as Orca), and pilot whales (also known as black fish). Each species has its own distinct habits, but, generally, the whales begin arriving in this area in early spring and leave for warmer waters in early winter.

We cruised past the quaint cottage colony and lighthouse at Sandy Neck, a beautiful barrier beach just two miles from the Inn, sitting on the top deck of the boat to soak up the afternoon sun on our way to see whales. In less than an hour, across very calm seas, we reached our destination.

State and federal agencies have strict guidelines for whale-watch boats. On Cape Cod, boats are prohibited from coming within more than 300 yards of most whales and 500 yards of the endangered right whale. Arriving at our destination, our boat approached the feeding ground and cut the engine. The onboard naturalist came over the P.A. system as the boat jockeyed for position, cautioning us to watch for “foot prints” on the water, the distinctive pattern left on the surface of the ocean after whales breach and dive below. “Thar she blows” echoed through my mind as I scanned the surface of the water, looking either for a foot print or a spout from the blowhole of an active whale in the area. I didn’t have to wait long.

Within minutes we spotted our first whale, a minke. As the naturalist directed us to this first sighting, eager cries from the opposite side of the boat lured us toward the stern. Soon we were surrounded by humpbacks, fin backs, and the omnipresent minkes. We, and our fellow travelers, found ourselves scurrying back and forth across the deck to catch a glimpse of each whale as it appeared on the scene, and scouring the horizon for a possible breach. Our naturalist was nearly giddy with excitement each time she made a new spotting. With each new sighting, the naturalist was careful to enlighten us with fascinating insight on whale behavior, plus commentary on the local ecology and history of  Stellwagen. Some naturalists, who have worked around whales for a long time, can identify individual whales by distinctive markings on the flukes of the whale’s tail, underside, body, or head, and often know specific details of their lives, from their offspring to their travel patterns.

Rich was absolutely in his glory trying to juggle between binoculars and his digital camera, though I thought the best approach was simply to wait for the “oohs and aahs” of my traveling companions and focus where their fingers pointed me. Several times during our trip, the captain maneuvered the boat so that all aboard could have a front row seat. In the end, we counted dozens of sightings, some a good distance away, but many so close to the boat we could almost reach out and touch them. The most exciting moment during a whale watch, of course, is when (or if) one of the whales shoots straight up out of the water and splashes down again into the sea in a maneuver known as breaching.

According to one local guidebook, humpback whales are the most popular species to watch because they are inquisitive enough to come close to the boats and have an engaging tendency to perform. Humpbacks feed for about six or seven months in the waters of Stellwagen Bank, which is rich with plankton, squid, herring, sand lance, and other sea life, and then leave the area, fasting until they return the following year from their wintering ground in the West Indies, where they breed and give birth. Different species of whales feed on different types of sea life. Right whales, for instance, feed mostly on plankton.

All too soon it seemed, but actually after more than an hour at the feeding grounds, our captain announced that we must leave. On the return trip, we spotted dolphin, and several basking sharks sunning themselves in the shallow depths near Sandy Neck. And, as an added bonus, we were treated to one of Cape Cods spectacular sunsets over Sandy Neck (more about that in another blogicle).

Needless to say, Rich is now a total convert, enthusiastically encouraging all our guests to take a whale watch adventure. No one has ever been disappointed, and several have told stories of mothers and calves breaching together, humpbacks seeming to wave their tail fins, and once, of the captain having to turn off the engines while a humpback scratched its back back-and-forth on the bottom of the boat.

Whale-watching boats run from mid-April through the end of October and usually last between three and four hours. Guests may depart from Barnstable Harbor, a short 15-minute drive from the High Pointe Inn, or Provincetown, which is about an hour’s drive. All whale-watching excursions guarantee sightings during the season, so on the off chance that no whales are spotted, you’ll be given a rain check to use at another time.

We offer our guests a small discount on trips departing from Barnstable Harbor aboard the Hyannis Whale Watcher, and can make reservations in advance to ensure seating.

The Green Flash, and Other Sunset Stories from Cape Cod

Rich and I have traveled the world, by road and rail, air and sea, bike and kayak, snowshoes and, well, you get the picture. And everywhere we go we stop to admire the sunset and often, photograph it. My dad first got me started with the ritual of watching the sun dip beneath the horizon. He and my Mom retired to the west coast of Florida when I graduated from college. They settled in the little seaside hamlet of Venice, FL, best known as the winter residence of the Ringling Brothers Circus, in a 3 bedroom condo that faced the Gulf of Mexico. My dad, an amateur photographer, like to sit on the deck at sunset, tripod and camera in hand, and snap photo after photo of the setting sun. Truth be told, the sunsets in Venice are spectacular. Very few places on the  east coast of the continental U.S. have a view of the sun setting over water, save for the west coast of Florida, some offshore islands, and parts of Cape Cod.

When I was working on cruise ships, in a previous pre-innkeeping world, sailors would tell me stories of seeing the “green flash”, a phosphorescent burst of greenish hue that supposedly occurred just as the final remnants of the sun disappeared into the water.

In all my days at seas, above and below the equator, I paused at day’s end to watch intently as the sun set.

Try as I might, in my five years at sea, I never saw the “green flash”. Part of me thought it was an old wives tale, or in my case, old sailors. But part of me, the romantic “I believe in Santa Clause and the good fairy” part, really, really wanted to see it. Then on a trip with my husband, years after my swashbuckling seafarer days, we were on a cruise that took us south to Guatemala. Leaving port at day’s end, we were on deck, just beneath the bridge waving goodbye to the locals who had gathered to see us off. As we steamed toward the horizon, for some strange reason, I recounted the tale of the “green flash” and my disappointment in never having seen it myself to Rich. Caught up in the moment of wistful recollections, but with some circumspection, he indulged my romantic notion and stopped to watch the sun sink slowly in the sky. Perhaps it was the warm trade winds, or the gentle swell of the ocean beneath us, or even the effervescence of the bubbly in our glasses, but at the very moment the sun slipped softly below the horizon…there it was. Ever so brief, but none the less brilliant, a flash of emerald green.

And though we’ve never seen it since, every time we watch the sun set, no matter where we are in the world, we hold our breath and hope that it appears.

We invite you to witness this phenomenon the next time you visit Cape Cod. Even if you don’t see it, it sure is fun trying. Here are some of our favorite spots to catch the sunset on this magnificent peninsular we call home:

Gray’s Beach, Yarmouthport

A long boardwalk across the marsh leads to a viewing platform. Along the way, you might spot a crab or two in the tide pools.

Chapin Memorial Beach, Dennis

Right across the town line from Gray’s Beach. Bring a blanket or a beach chair for comfort.

Wychmere Harbor, Harwichport

Wychmere is considered by some to be one of the prettiest harbors on the Cape. Pull into the little observation area off Rt. 28, but remember that parking is limited to 15 minutes.

Skaket Beach, Orleans

Set right in the crook of the Cape’s elbow, Skaket offers you that rare East Coast treat of seeing the sun set on water.

Great Island, Wellfleet

This secluded section of the National Seashore overlooks Cape Cod Bay to its west and Wellfleet Harbor to the east.

Cape Cod Light, Truro

The view from this vantage point includes dunes, ocean, bay, Pilgrim Monument, and Cape Cod Light to frame your sunset.

Race Point, Provincetown

Race Point sits on the very tip of the Cape, surrounding by water on three sides.

From Sea or Sky

Nantucket and Martha’s Vineyard also have beautiful sunsets, but our favorite treat is to catch the sunset from the back of the ferry on our return trip from one of the islands. Even better is to catch it in flight aboard a Cape bound plane.

Ambling Down Historic Route 6A: The Old King’s Highway

One of my all-time favorite things to do on Cape Cod, no matter what the weather or season, is to amble along Route 6A, the Old King’s Highway in my sporty little red Mazda Miata, a 50th birthday present from my husband, Rich. Recognized as one of the ten most scenic byways in America, the road winds 34 miles though the villages of Bourne, Sandwich, West Barnstable, Barnstable, Yarmouthport, Dennis, Brewster, and Orleans,

roughly paralleling the coastline of Cape Cod Bay. Route 6A is the heart of Cape Cod and the heart of the Old King’s Highway Regional Historic District, America’s largest designated historic district, which is bounded to the south by the Mid-Cape Highway (Route 6), and to the north by Cape Cod Bay.

Driving along this scenic byway you’ll be transported through centuries of Cape Cod history, passing scenic harbors, great salt marshes, unique galleries, and the distinctive architecture of treasured old sea captain’s homes. But my particular guilty pleasure in driving 6A is that it is lined by hundreds of quaint shops filled with the most unique and unusual items.

Of course, there are the ubiquitous antique stores, dozens of shops featuring handcrafted items, including lanterns, ironworks, baskets, weather instruments, fine jewelry, pottery, fine art, cuckoo clocks, birdbaths, and home and garden items. Tucked amid these are whimsical little places to purchase Christmas collectibles, Cape Cod Angels, antique maps and nautical items, along with an herbal apothecary and a hand weaving shop. And here-and-there along the way are quirky general stores, an even quirkier bookshop, and numerous spots to quench your thirst or sate your appetite.

If you’re not a shopper, 6A can still delight. Strong preservation efforts have resulted in the protection of open lands and historic structures along the corridor. Conservation lands in many towns along the way offer nature trails and several villages have developed walking tours. Some of my favorite museums also line the corridor of 6A, including the Natural History Museum, the Cape Cod Art Museum, the Edward Gorey Museum, the Sandwich Glass Museum, and Heritage Museum and Gardens, with its historic round barn and car museu and my grandchildren’s favorite, a restored, and fully functioning carousel.

Other Sights Along 6A:

Bourne
Aptuxcet Trading Post
Cape Cod Canal Bicycle Trail
Briggs-McDermott House

Barnstable
Olde Colonial Courthouse
Barnstable Comedy Club
Trayser Memorial Museum
Barnstable Superior Courthouse
Cape Cod Art Association

Brewster
Harris Black House and Windmill
Cape Museum of Natural History
Stoney Brook Grist Mill
Brewster Historical Society Museum
Nickerson State Park
Cape Cod Reperatory Theater

Dennis
Josiah Dennis Manse & Old West Schoolhouse
Cape Museum of Fine Arts
Cape Cinema
Cape Playhouse
Scargo Hill Tower

Orleans
Cape Cod Rail Trail Bicycle Trail
French Cable Station Museum
Jonathan Young Windmill

Sandwich
Shawme Crowell State Forest
Sandwich Glass Museum
Dexter’s Grist Mill
Thornton Burgess Museum
Hoxie House
Heritage Plantation
Wing Fort House
Green Briar Nature Center
Nye Homestead

Yarmouth
Bangs Hallet House
Yarmouth Nature Trail
Winslow Crocker House

Kayaking Cape Cod Style

Rich and I first bought kayaks during our tenure in North Conway, NH, where, as many of you know, we had an 11-room bed and breakfast in the heart of the White Mountains. Longtime owners of an Old Town canoe, we were cajoled by friends one day to try kayaking on the Saco River. Lulled into complacency by the ease of navigating this gentle river in summer, allowing the current to steer us downstream to a pick-up spot in the bend of the river, we soon sold our canoe and invested in kayaks of our own.
We “tried on” several kayaks (literally) before making our choices. I went with a Perception Acadia, and Rich chose a Walden specifically because it is designed for fishing, being wider of berth and shallower of draft, and hence more stable. Plus it had a neat gizmo attached to store his fishing rod when not in use and a nifty little detachable apron across the cockpit, just perfect for attaching hooks, and lures, and flies, and such.. Actually, it comes in much more handy when eating lunch out on the water. Well, you get the picture. We each decided to get our own kayak rather than a tandem, primarily due to the ugly moped incident on our honeymoon when we opted to rent one moped for the both of us. It’s lucky we still married after that experience, let alone alive. But that’s another story.

Anyhow, we brought our kayaks with us when we moved to the Cape, fully expecting to while away many a summer’s afternoon in the bayous and backwaters of this lovely peninsular. To date we have kayaked in Barnstable Harbor, on Little Pleasant Bay, on the Parker River (to a 4th of July fireworks display), and Lake Wequaquet, all memorable experiences to be sure, but not nearly enough to sate our hunger for the sport.

There are a number of good kayak rental outfitters on Cape Cod, and a few that offer guided tours and instruction. Our favorite is Osprey Sea Kayak Adventures (http://www.ospreyseakayak.com), operated by Dick Hilmer and his wife. Dick is a heck of a guy, a throwback perhaps to the 60s, but a supremely knowledgeable and extremely eco-conscious individual with a terrific sense of humor. We have sent a number of our guests on kayak adventures with Dick, and all return with high praise for his unique ability to share his love of and concern for the fragile Cape Cod eco-system. We’ve even taken some of our friends out with Dick, who echo our kudos to what he offers the Cape Cod visitor.

When time allows we will tackle the rest of what Dick tells us are the best kayaking spots on the Cape. Here is his top ten list, in no particular order:

SCORTON CREEK, Sandwich
Launch from the State Wildlife Reservation off Route 6A by the Scorton Creek Bridge. Scorton means “place where the stream branches.” Follow this twisting tidal creek through the Great Marsh, which once stretched as far as Barnstable Harbor. Explore adjacent Mill and Shove Creeks. Highlights: herons, egrets, ospreys, and striped bass.

WAQUOIT BAY, Falmouth & Mashpee
Launch from Great River Boat Landing, Great Oak Road, Mashpee. Paddle down Great River and west across Waquoit Bay to Washburn Island. Continue south along the island, across the channel to South Cape Beach State Park, then return across the bay. Highlights: walking the pristine 330-acre Washburn Island (primitive camping available), beachcombing on South Cape Beach, shorebirds.

BARNSTABLE HARBOR, Barnstable
Launch from Blish Point State Landing, Millway Road. Head across Barnstable Harbor to Sandy Neck and explore this spectacular seven-mile long barrier beach that protects the 4,000-acre Great Marsh. Highlights: second highest sand dunes on Cape Cod, views of the Great Marsh, quaint village and old lighthouse at Beach Point.

BASS RIVER, Dennis
Launch from Cove Road and paddle north. Bass River is the longest river on Cape Cod, stretching seven miles from its headwaters at Mill Pond to Nantucket Sound. Highlight: walking the two mile trail at the Indian Lands Conservation Area, spring wildflowers (including lady’s slippers).

BELLS NECK/HERRING RIVER, Harwich
Launch from Bell’s Neck Road and cross the West Reservoir, a freshwater cedar swamp. Take out at the dike and put back in on the Herring River. Follow the winding river to Route 28 in West Harwich. Highlights: 245 acres of salt and freshwater marshes, woods, herring run, cranberry bogs, kettle ponds, hiking trails.

BREWSTER PONDS, Brewster
Launch from Punkhorn Parklands parking lot, Run Hill Road. An easy canoe trip through a chain of freshwater ponds, Walker’s, Upper Mill, and Lower Mill. These kettle ponds were created 12,000 years ago by melting blocks of glacial ice. Highlights: Stony Brook Grist Mill, the herring run, five miles of trails in the 800-acre Punkhorn Parklands.

LITTLE PLEASANT BAY, Orleans
Launch from Portanimicut Road, Orleans. Paddle across Little Pleasant Bay to circumnavigate Sampson and Hog Islands and explore Nauset Beach. The privately owned islands allow visitors, and Nauset Beach is part of the Cape Cod National Seashore. Highlights: snorkeling, eelgrass beds, horseshoe crabs, ospreys.

NAUSET MARSH, Eastham
Launch from Salt Pond below the Salt Pond Visitor’s Center or Hemenway Road off Route 6. Nauset Marsh is a vast system of salt-marsh, creeks, channels, islands, and barrier beach. Circumnavigate the marsh heading north through Salt Pond Bay and Nauset Bay, then south along Nauset Beach, and back through the Main Channel. Or head south through Skiff Hill Creek along Fort Hill, past Town Cove to Inlet Marsh and back. Highlights: former Coast Guard Station, thousands of nesting terns, migrating shorebirds, seals, striped bass, ospreys, beachcombing, National Seashore visitor center, hiking trails and bike paths nearby.

WELLFLEET PONDS, Wellfleet
Launch from Gull Pond Landing off Schoolhouse Hill Road. This is a short and easy tour, especially good for beginners, of three kettle ponds – Gull, Higgins, and Williams – in the Cape Cod National Seashore. Williams Pond was the home of the “Wellfleet Oysterman” immortalized in Thoreau’s Cape Cod. Highlights: water lilies, red maples, turtles, frogs, sunfish, swimming.

PAMET RIVER, Truro
Launch from the South Pamet Road culvert to explore the freshwater Upper Pamet or from the Pamet Harbor boat ramp on Depot Road to explore the saltwater Lower Pamet and Pamet Harbor. The Pamet is an outwash channel carved by the glaciers with its head at the Atlantic Ocean and its mouth at Cape Cod Bay. Highlights: foliage, panoramic views of the Pamet Hills.

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