Won’t You Let Me Take You on A Seal Cruise?

On one of our frequent “jump in the car and see where it takes you” adventures, Rich and I discovered the Monomy National Wildlife Refuge, a division of the U.S. Fish and Wildlife Service, in Chatham. Around the corner from the Coast Guard Station, off Morris Island Road, we followed the signs for the Rip Ryder Monomoy Island Ferry. Pulling into the lot, we tucked the Miata into a parking spot and headed towards sign holding a large map of the area. It was here that we were first introduced to Captain Keith Lincoln and his crew, who operate the Rip Ryder IV, a 32 foot, twin-engine vessel that takes passengers to North and South Monomoy Islands on fishing excursions, lighthouse adventures, and our favorite, the seal cruise.

Rich, or Chatty Cathy as some of us like to refer to him, struck up a conversation with a gentleman in the parking lot selling tickets and handing out brochures for the Rip Ryder. He and his wife (we assume) man their mini-van from 8AM to 5PM daily offering a variety of trips and tours, including beach, birding, and fishing shuttles to South Beach; day trips to the Monomoy National Wildlife Refuge and the historic Monomoy Lighthouse; sea duck tours in the fall; and the ever-popular seal cruise, which is the subject of this missive.

Apparently Cape Cod is a great spot to see seals, although until this encounter we were unaware of that fact. What we did discover is this: the two species of seal predominantly found along the Cape and islands’ shorelines are the harbor and grey seal. According to our informant, there are as many as 3,000 to 5,000 seals inhabiting the waters of Cape Cod year-round, but, according to him the best time to spot them is November through April.

For some reason Chatham seems to be a popular spot for these seals, especially along South Monomoy Island. Our guests have also spotted them in nearby North Beach, Tern Island, and Aunt Lydia’s Cove (which is across from the Chatham Fish Pier). They have also been know to sun themselves on the beaches in Wellfleet, Provincetown, and Woods Hole, and many of our guests have photos to prove it.

The seals begin to arrive in the waters off Cape Cod generally between September and October. The breeding season, especially for grey seals, runs from late September through early March. During this time, the pups are born on the barrier beaches or the shores of the Monomoy Islands. Most experts agree that the best time to view seals is at low tide. As the tide goes out and the sandbars are exposed, the seals hoist themselves up on the sand bars to conserve energy and soak up the heat from the sun.

Of course, if you’re not interested in spending your day sunning next to a seal, a seal cruise is your best bet. The Rip Ryder offers 90-minute tours along the west side of the Monomoy Islands with a trained naturalist onboard to offer educational information and spot the seals for you. Although they appear as bobbing heads in the surf at a distance, up close they will treat you to a cacophony of  barking and chattering as they frolic in the in sea.

Of course, if a seal cruise doesn’t interest you, you can always do what we do at the wildlife refuge. Start by packing a picnic and a couple of beach chairs (you may have to have a vehicle larger than my Miata to comfortably transport these items). Find a good parking spot in the lot, walk the nature trail along the top of the cliffs, stopping at the frequent overlooks for spectacular views of the ocean, then mosey down a set of wooden stairs to the beach below. At the bottom, take off your shoes, stroll down the beach a bit away from the stairs (which is the launching spot for the shuttle), park your chair at the edge of the water and watch the parade of boats, birds, and sea life until the sun sets (or the tide comes in, or you get hungry or thirsty and the picnic basket is empty, or nature calls). At any rate, its a helluva great way to spend the day.

Shopping in Cape Cod – Shop Treasures

When Rich and I lived in North Conway, one of the major outlet shopping Meccas in New England, it was not unusual for guests at our inn to plan a whole weekend around shopping. This was especially true in the weeks just prior to Christmas, when hoards of folks would take advantage of tax-free shopping at literally hundreds of outlets that lined the narrow strip of Route 16 in the White Mountains. We also noticed an influx of Canadian visitors at all times of the year, coming across the border to load up on what they perceived as bargains compared to the economic situation they found at home. It was not unusual for our guests from Canada to arrive with multiple suitcases, mostly empty in anticipation of filling them with all sorts of great deals for the return trip home. Upon their departure, we would find dozens of discarded shopping bags, boxes, and price tags strewn across the room from a buying frenzy of which any shop-a-holic would be proud. A strain on our recycling efforts, to be sure, but a necessary by-product of shopping.

Once we moved south to Cape Cod, we expected our “shopping” market to drop significantly. Though there are a few outlets in the immediate area and a more comprehensive outlet mall within an hour’s drive, we did not expect that the prime motivator for a trip to Cape Cod would be shopping. What we failed to consider was the overseas market, mostly from Great Britain, Germany, and other European countries, who are currently taking advantage of the weak U.S. dollar and find that not only is travel to the U.S. a considerable bargain, but consumer goods are nearly half-price compared to prices at home.

So when our foreign visitors asked us where to shop on Cape Cod, we were at first  a little stymied. Our first inclination was to direct them to something comparable to the outlet shopping malls that were so prevalent in North Conway. But the nearest venue was an hour’s drive, which would take them off Cape, something that no Cape Cod business owner wants to encourage. Then we took a closer look at the myriad shopping opportunities we have right here on Cape Cod, from traditional shopping malls to quaint shopping villages and small town Main Streets. So now when we get the inevitable question “Where can we go to shop?” we direct our guests to any of the following  settings, depending of course on what they are looking for. And, oh by the way, now when we still shopping bags and tags left behind in our guest rooms, we take heart in knowing that at least we are supporting the local economy.

Cape Cod Mall
Route 28 & 132, Hyannis; 508-771-0200
Enclosed, single-level shopping mall. Anchored by Macy’s and Sears; 100+ additional stores including Banana Republic, Ann Taylor Loft, Talbot’s, Gap, Victoria’s Secret, Abercrombie and Fitch. 400-seat Food Court, 2 full-service restaurants, 12-screen cinema megaplex. Hours: Mon.-Sat., 9:30 am – 9:30 pm.; Sun., 11 am-6 pm.

Mashpee Commons
Mashpee Rotary, Route 28 & 151, Mashpee; 508-477-5400
Laid out like a traditional New England village. Over 90 stores, including upscale merchants such as Ann Taylor, Pottery Barn, Banana Republic, and William Sonoma; plus Chico’s, Claire Murray, and Gap. An assortment of smaller stores featuring fine arts and crafts, antiques, toys, and jewelry. Several cafes and fine dining opportunities, 6-screen cinema.

Lemon Tree Village
Main St., Brewster (Rte. 6A, about 1 mile west of town center)
A small shopping complex on two levels, with unique shops featuring garden statuary, gourmet cooking utensils, locally made arts and crafts, pottery, birding supplies, clothing, gifts, jewelry and toys. Small café adjacent. Hours: 10 am-5 pm. daily, year-round.

Main Streets

One of the beauties of Cape Cod is that it is comprised of 15 uniquely individual small towns, each with its own main street of commerce, some more populated than others, but with their own charm and appeal. Walking down the main streets of Cape Cod is a delightful pastime. Naturally the larger the town, the more walkable its main street. But we could spend hours meandering the shops in Falmouth, Hyannis, Chatham, and Provincetown, and often do.

Main Street, Falmouth
One-of-a-kind gifts, home decor, men’s and women’s apparel, housewares, books, art and antiques, plus plenty of bistros and cafes for lunch or dinner.

Main Street, Hyannis
In addition to the usual fare, you’ll find vintage and designer clothing, beachwear, leather goods, gourmet cookware, candles, homemade fudge and saltwater taffy, sporting goods, an Army/Navy surplus store, fine art, and the requisite tourist souvenir shops. Interspersed along the way are several good restaurants, ice cream shops, mini-golf, and a  carousel.

Main Street, Chatham

The shops of Chatham are perhaps a bit more chic, in keeping with its old world and old money tradition. Here you’ll find a preponderance of casual resort wear, children’s clothing, vintage clothing, contemporary art, fine arts and crafts, handmade gold jewelry, antiques and accessories, lightship baskets, fine linens, gourmet cookware, home furnishings, alongside tee shirt shops, a candy store, a jam and jelly shop, and a shop featuring 1960’s memorabilia. And when it’s time to rest your weary feet there are plenty of casual restaurants, plus a fine-dining opportunity or two.

Commercial Street, Provincetown
Commercial Street in Provincetown is a one-way street lined with everything from fine art galleries, funky eclectic shops (some featuring items that may make you blush), tee shirt shops, import stores, great bistros and bars with outside dining, a kite shop, soaps and toiletries, hand-crafted jewelry, hip men’s and women’s ware, a pet lover’s store, and just about anything else you can imagine or need. One of our favorite things to do is just to sit and watch the constant parade of humanity. When our guests are looking for something out of the ordinary or want to take a walk on the wildside, we always recommend P’Town.

Most shops are open from mid-April through mid-October. In summer, some shops may remain open until 11 pm. Shops that stay open year-round are often open only on weekends during the quiet months of January through March.